"If the material world is merely illusion, an honest guru should be as content with Budweiser and bratwurst as with raw carrot juice, tofu and seaweed slime." ~Edward Abbey

Thursday 2 February 2012

Super Bowl Sunday


Thanksgiving in November, Christmas in December, Burn’s Night and Chinese New Year in January: it seems that every calendar month has an event that defines it from a gastronomic standpoint. February is no different. Valentine’s Day stands out in a particularly cringe kind of way, the scores of men and women suddenly fancying themselves as little Heston’s and trying to impress their sweethearts with generally misguided culinary exploits occasioning a strange brand of pity. Equally pathetic is the way people willingly buy into below average restaurants offering ludicrously priced ‘special’ set menus that get you little more than a weak prosecco-based cocktail and something bland tasting but inevitably heart-shaped for the premium. So if V-Day is generally accepted as being a shallow marketing exercise, what does the evangelical food perv have to look forward to before the slow dawn of Spring elicits wet dreams of barbeques and new season lamb?

For something original, follow the lead of our American brethren and go all out for the Super Bowl this weekend. Of course, you could do the easy thing and go for a usually ill-advised Sunday night out. London offers several good options: close to my home in Hackney, Road Trip Bar on Old St is renowned for its sizeable ex-pat contingent and seems a decent bet for a good time, though this is based on word-of-mouth rather than personal experience. Spread fairly democratically across the capital, Bodean’s BBQ offers a good value night out, with £25 getting you a table and food before the big game and at half time. Sure, it can’t even shine Pitt Cue Co’s shoes, but it’s not that bad. Honest, I’m sure the food poisoning I got a few years back was a one-off! The Sports Café in Haymarket is the rowdiest atmosphere, generarally made up of American students - sorry, 'college kids' - and perfect if you want to satisfy your inner Bluto. If you can beat my personal best of fifty buffalo wings in one sitting, I'll post your photo on Scav Gourmet!

But those of us who grew up with this somewhat peculiar relative of rugby know that the Super Bowl isn’t about going out at all. It’s a compromise we occasionally make but, really, it’s all about the staging of a good, old fashioned house party, a gathering of family and friends where regional rivalries lead to good-natured banter rather than fisticuffs. It’s a de facto national holiday the other side of the pond and one of my favourite days this side of St. Paddy's, and the best hosts start planning their menu weeks in advance. I'm hitting the shops later today and have Brew Dog delivering tommorow.

Always trying to antagonise the status quo, I encourage you to embrace this gladiatorial spectacle wholeheartedly: stay up late, call in sick, and stuff your face with calorific goodness and cheap lager in between! Should you choose to go the whole hog and get some friends round, I’d like to propose a few culinary ideas. The general rule is that crisps and various dips are on offer at all times, with hot dishes coming out just before kick-off and then again at half time. So without further ado, here’s my idea of a classic Super Bowl Sunday feast that should serve 10-12 people more than adequately. Google to find the exact recipes you want to follow.

Pre-Game

In addition to a hearty spread of various ‘chips and dips’ (that’s crisps in old money) – the most obscene of which must be a seven-layered Mexican dip - buffalo chicken is pretty much de rigeur before all sporting occasions in America, whether  it’s at home or down the local boozer. Deep fat frying is the cholesterol-enhancing, traditional method of cooking this dish, which is best made either with delicious yet super cheap wings (separated at the join) or by breading tenders by hand. But oven baking produces a healthier and just as tasty result because, let’s face it, unlike our American cousins, we don’t all have a deep fat-fryer next to the bread bin. The secret if you're going the oven route is to get Japanese panko breadcrumbs - no other bread crumb will do if you want it to be really crispy. Go Yank and finish your cooked chicken by tossing it in the pan with butter and Frank’s Hot Sauce, or keep it true to London with a jerk-style spice blend and extra pepper sauce. Serve with crudités, some blue dressing, and maybe a nice homemade slaw to give this dive bar classic a bit of dignity: I love fennel, apple, and carrot mixed together with light mayo. Nachos would normally be served during the game, but can easily be substituted into this position if you’re after a less meaty Super Bowl Sunday.

Game Time

Nachos rule here and I won’t insult you by telling you how to melt cheese over tortilla chips. I would, however, insist that you make your own condiments: there is absolutely no substitute for homemade guacamole and salsa. If you’re worried about OD’ing on tortilla chips, or have employed nachos to good effect earlier in the evening, then mac ‘n’ cheese is another direction you could head. There’s a favoured recipe in almost every household in the States, and while it’s hardly Weight Watchers stuff, it’s the Super Bowl, so have a blowout baby! For a touch of class, throw some truffle oil into the cheese blend before baking, or go all out and add some fresh (ideally sustainable) lobster. Bacon lardons make a cheaper, equally nice addition if you’re catering solely to carnivorous palates. You can make it ahead and just whack it in the oven when your mates start moaning. For something even simpler, get some good quality, Italian style sausages and serve simply in rolls with mustard and onions sautéed in local pale ale. Or, if you want to honour New England rather than New York (which you should), make a big bowl of ‘chowda.’ Again, freshness really makes a difference here, so go the extra mile and use fresh clams rather than the tinned variety if you have time.


There’s a plethora of options for a half-time nosh, with most American classics – from ribs and burgers to classic creole jambalayas and gumbos – being suitable. But for the simplest solution, go for a chili. It can be made well ahead and left to simmer while you enjoy a few beers. Even better, it’s easily adapted to suit both vegetarians and meat eaters: a three-bean blend for our non-flesh eating friends, a blend of coarse ground beef and pork with maybe a bit of chuck steak thrown in for those of us who want to get our teeth stuck in. Serve with rice and garnish with coriander, sour cream, spring onions, grated cheese, and lime wedges - I already hear a familiar voice from Essex going, “Now you’re laughing!” 

Something Sweet

The reason slow-cook dishes like chili and prepare ahead fodder like mac n cheese works so well Super Bowl Sunday is because, frankly, no matter how much they love their guests, party hosts ultimately want the same thing as everybody else: to enjoy the game with a few cold bevvies. For this reason, dessert follows the same pattern as previous courses, with the general rule being that make-ahead fodder like brownies and cake bars are more than acceptable for those with a sweet tooth. I like to go for a nutty brownie, maybe with pecans instead of walnuts to give the chocolate a bit of a southern twang and a touch of white chocolate for sophistication. Make it all ahead to pop in the oven at half time and have a decent tub of ice cream around – Ben and Jerry’s was always the one during my misspent youth in Massachusetts. Oh, did I forget to mention? Come on you Pats! Whether you’re aware of it or not, have a brilliant Super Bowl Sunday – I really hope you choose to embrace this thoroughly worthy and delicious new world tradition. If I'm not too deep into my crate of Punk IPA, I'll try and post a couple recipes and photos on the day!

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